Happy Speedy Tuesday, folks! Last week, we discussed alternatives to the vaunted Speedmaster Professional in the form of various derivatives with differing movements, dials and visual qualities. I proposed some references that I felt were worthy of taking a flyer on, while taking a pot shot at Mr. Vanilla from whom they all descend. Consider this a discourse in reverse – now, we will take a look at the latest generation Speedmaster Professional and what makes it the worthiest of them all.
About
So I was harsh in my last post – there has never been any point where I looked down at my Speedmaster and sighed lackadaisically. In fact, the only shape my ugly mug contorts into is one of joy, because the Moonwatch is an objectively handsome watch. Omega can certainly attribute a significant portion of its success from intertwining the Speedy’s history with that of space exploration. However, I choose to believe that the beautiful design and mechanical merits of this watch are equally responsible for its stratospheric fame. History can’t carry you alone to spend thousands of dollars on a veblen good.
Similar to other famous watches, writing about the Speedmaster sometimes feels like a difficult proposition. So much has already been said about the watch that, to a large extent, my rehashing the facts feels like waiting in line to walk on a treadmill. Tip of the hat to Omega, however, for making my job easier than I initially suspected; Omega’s laundry list of updates should be more than enough to make you pause when considering what generation of Speedmaster is the best wrist companion.
Thanks to reader and fellow Clemson buddy Kramer, we have an awesome opportunity to review the new as of 2021 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Master Chronometer. Similar to previous offerings, this Speedmaster comes into two flavors – a Hesalite crystal-equipped version that is perhaps the truest to the original Moonwatch, and what you will see before you today in the more modern Sapphire Sandwich. Both watches function identically: you just need to tell them bedtime stories of the lunar landing, and then they self-wind and start telling perfect time. Okay, maybe not, but there are several differences between both watches as well as how they stack up against the outgoing Caliber 1861. Let’s get into it.
Back To The Moon, With Vigor
There is a lot to cover around on the Moonwatch Master Chronometer, but we ought to keep in mind that it is still a Speedmaster Professional, claiming descent from the original CK 2998 released in 1959. In a lot of ways, this is the same Speedy Pro that you know and love. If Omega had a secret Coca-Cola style formula clandestinely squirreled away inside a vault deep under Biel, I imagine we would find it to be straight forward in its composition – 42mm case diameter, stainless steel, protective crown guards, twisted lugs, black dial, and a black tachymeter bezel. These are all core design elements of the modern Speedmaster as it has evolved from the CK 2998 (and the earlier 2915, if you want to get specific). In the aggregate, these styling cues are so ubiquitous that untrained eyes might think the new Speedy is identical to the previous generation.
Upon closer inspection, however, we can find small, welcome changes all over the board. Let’s start with that pesky space you stare at the most. The dial of the cal. 3861 is now “stepped” in a vintage pie-pan style, and while I can’t definitively confirm it, the subdials appear more sunken than before. The chronograph hand is slimmer and has gone back to a pointed counterweight on the back end versus the previous flat counterweight, and the pivots for each subdial hand are now silver instead of painted. Put me in the pro-new dial camp, as I do think these updates add better legibility and more visual depth. Trying to tell the time on a Speedmaster is already an impossible task, so kudos to Omega for batting a couple singles here and helping an old man like yours truly to read with less of a struggle.
Since the dial is already on the table, you should be aware this is one of three areas where the Sapphire Sandwich is most distinguishable from the Hesalite-equipped model. The dial of the Sapphire Sandwich has an applied Omega logo, whereas the latter is actually printed. Both dial options have seen their minute tracks adjusted as well; in between the second indices, you get two hashmarks instead of the previous four. My mind isn’t quite made up on whether this is a “Yay” or “Nay”, but the stakes have luckily never been lower.
The second, more obvious item that separates these models is the crystal, with the Sapphire Sandwich predictably gaining a sapphire display caseback (which slightly alters overall thickness). My personal battle cry that I repeat to nearby horological challengers before taking off their heads is “Hesalite Might Makes Right” – okay, no that is not actually something I say or do. However, I do have a bias towards how old school plexiglass adds soft light and shape distortion along the edges of the crystal. Conversely, the Sapphire Sandwich’s crystal gives it a more modern beauty to it.
Finally, the third degree of separation lies with the finishing of the steel bracelet, which is a new five-link design that tapers down from 20mm at the lugs to 15mm at a clasp featuring an inset Omega logo and horizontal striations. This clasp provides two additional micro-adjust positions, although they aren’t made for on-the-fly adjustment, and the pushers on either side feel sturdy. The Hesalite model bracelet is fully brushed and appears more tool-oriented, while the mirror finish of the interlinks on the Sapphire Sandwich bracelet add a little extra luxury. Regardless of your preference, this refreshed bracelet alone is a great reason to go for the new Speedy. The taper is excellent and it feels significantly less bulky than the 1861-era option.
Both the Hesalite and Sapphire Sandwich models have a slight change to the black aluminum tachymeter bezel, which is functionally identical to the bezel on the 1861. If you appreciate the finer details like me, you may have noticed the DON bezel making its return. This literally means “Dot over Ninety” and is a pre-1970s callback. That’s it. This is the type of news that makes Speedy geeks blare trumpets and normal peoples’ eyes glaze over. These are the only two camps available for you to choose from; there is no grey area.
Okay, let’s rewind back to the display caseback and gaze into the beating heart that is Omega’s manual-wind Caliber 3861, the real highlight of the new Moonwatch. The 3861 is the 1861’s more robust cousin, a bona fide thoroughbred, who wisely listened to Popeye and ate his spinach. It sports Lemania-based architecture as the third phase of the Caliber 861’s evolution, but now has a co-axial escapement, silicon balance spring, 26 jewels over the previous generation’s 18, and an extra 2 hours of power reserve at 50 hours total. That mechanically efficient co-axial escapement is a key addition to this new movement; theoretically, you should expect better precision and reduced friction (thus extending service intervals).
The final punchline with these upgrades is that the Caliber 3861 has been certified for Master Chronometer status by METAS, or the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. Effectively, this means you benefit from resistance to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss and timekeeping accuracy of 0 / +5 seconds per day. For comparison, COSC certification requires accuracy -4 / +6 seconds per day. Given the Caliber 1861 is spec’d by Omega for -1 / +11 seconds per day, even watch snobs who don’t care for movement upgrades should be able to appreciate what a colossal leap forward this is.
Lunar Love, Lunar Lust
We can nitpick about the merits (or lack thereof) for each change done to the new Speedmaster, but I do feel that this is a strong next step in the Moonwatch’s progression as a highly capable tool chronograph. No need to burn calories on this one – the upgraded bracelet and movement elevate it to a higher level than Caliber 1861-era Speedmasters, full stop. Given NASA has also rated this new Speedy as flight qualified, it keeps the legitimacy and heritage of previous Speedmasters.
Rather, the right question isn’t one of technical superiority, but rather monetary worth: how much do you as a prospective consumer value the technical improvements that the Moonwatch Master Chronometer brings to the table? There are serious portions of the global watch enthusiast population who value neither bracelets nor movement upgrades. If you care even the slightest about either, the Master Chronometer is the right target and is worth saving up for. If you just want a Speedmaster, the Caliber 1861 is perfect.
If specifications aren’t good enough to help force a conclusion, you should also consider that the new Moonwatch does come with an increased price point; on the bracelet, the Hesalite and Sapphire Sandwich models will cost you $6,400 and $7,200, respectively. Regardless of whether the Caliber 1861 was originally underpriced or not, this new price premium (around $1,000 versus MSRP for the 1861) is a spicy meatball no matter how you slice it. That might be a silly comparison anyways, given base 1861s start on chrono24.com at $3,000 and change. Similar to those just wanting a Speedmaster, budget ballers walk away with an easy answer. Financially fortunate and then some? Return to considering the technical upgrades.
My personal opinion is that the Master Chronometer feels fairly similar on wrist to the Caliber 1861 despite the 1mm lug to lug reduction – it represents forward progress, not an entirely new watch. As Speedmaster Professionals, they both share a key advantage over the derivatives I mentioned in last week’s post: versatility. Black dial, stainless steel. Throw on a tee shirt and jeans. Throw on a tuxedo. The Speedmaster is remarkably cool with it all. This adaptability is what I love the most about the Speedmaster. That versatility is also attainable in a way that Rolex, Omega’s primary competitor, hasn’t been in a long time. You can almost buy both generations of Speedmasters for the price of one Submariner, yet even if you have the cash, you can’t actually go buy the Submariner due to low supply. Horology is a cruel mistress.
Omega may be pushing the envelope a bit in terms of recent price increases, but to me the Speedmaster Professional still represents the people’s luxury watch: that versatility gives an “every day” vibe that everyone can enjoy. Talk of the moon and astronauts and little green men only serves to further enhance its legend. I truly believe the 1861 and 3861 are both solid contenders who can be that every day watch in your life. All you need to do is decide how much mechanical horsepower you require and if you are willing to pony up to get it.
The Specs:
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Crystal: Domed Sapphire (Sapphire Sandwich); Hesalite / Plexiglass (Hesalite)
- Features: Chronograph Function
- Movement: Omega Caliber 3861 (Manual-Wind; Master Chronometer, METAS-certified)
- Power Reserve: 50 Hours*
- Screwdown Crown: No
- Bezel Movement: N/A, Fixed
- Caseback: Sapphire Display (Sapphire Sandwich); Sealed Caseback (Hesalite)
- Water Resistance: 50 Meters
- Case Diameter: 42mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 47mm
- Lug Width: 20mm
- Thickness: 13.2mm (Sapphire Sandwich); 13.6mm (Hesalite)
*Who cares – you’re going to wind it every day anyways, you nerd
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