There are as many limited editions of the Omega Speedmaster as there are stars in the sky – seriously, how can one ever be expected to master such variety? Omega has produced some impressive models over the decades, and while not all of them are attainable, there are definitely many still within striking distance if you can save a little change over time. Here are my 5 slightly quirky picks for Omega Speedmasters that should have a spot on your short list.
About
The current generation Omega Speedmaster Professional is about as bulletproof a choice as it gets when picking out luxury watches – classic proportions, modern finishing standards, strict METAS-certified timekeeping accuracy, stainless steel, the list goes on. Fame of a lunar nature never hurts either, and everyone enjoys the buddy story of Buzz and Neil kicking up moon dust with their Speedmasters strapped to their suits. You basically have the ideal one-two punch, a watch physically worth its salt with an unrivaled level of heritage. You know what I have say to all of that? Yawn.
Just kidding. The original is really quite super – still, if you have to have a Speedmaster, why not consider something slightly outside the fairway? Vanilla ‘Speedy Pros’ are so common that you could almost say they are a dime a dozen; this isn’t necessarily fair considering their incredible construction quality, but it still speaks to the truth of the watch’s popularity. This is where Omega’s prolific usage of the word ‘Speedmaster’ comes into play – as I have mentioned before in a previous post, Omega tends to overdevelop the catalogue and then some. This gets equal parts praise and disdain in the watch world, and I can definitely understand the latter point of view – if everything is a limited edition, nothing is a limited edition.
However, therein lies the silver lining of Omega conducting such broad Speedmaster-branded production – you really can get this classic chronograph in whatever flavor you want. Aventurine dials, racing minute tracks, precious metal case construction, etc. are all available if only you know where to look. There are a few very famous references that immediately come to mind such as the Tin Tin and Alaska Project, but they are victims of their own success and don’t represent reasonable targets for the average watch collector. Today, we’re going to look at 5 references that are by definition hipster Speedmasters – the price tags may still command big boy / big girl dollars, but luckily don’t reflect the hype-mania that has stricken more popular versions of the Moonwatch.
Omega Speedmaster Reduced ‘Japan Limited Edition’ Ref. 3510.82
Classic Speedmasters are well-known for being 42mm in case diameter. 42mm looks good on the Speedy, as the lugs twist down to shorten its overall length, but I can understand the concerns that my fellow small-wristed brethren have expressed over said sizing. Enter the Speedmaster Reduced, which was produced between 1988 and 2009. This downsized cousin of the original made some major changes, measuring in at 39mm and utilizing an automatic ETA 2892-A2 combined with a Dubois Depraz chronograph module (which alters the sub dial layout and pusher height). These bad boys are accordingly smaller and cheaper to access, although you need to be cognizant of higher servicing costs with that chrono-module in play.
Interestingly enough, Omega did continue their tradition of limited edition models with the Reduced line as well. One such option is the ref. 3510.82 ‘Japan Limited Edition.’ This gorgeous reference, featuring a steel tachymeter bezel and inverted blue panda dial, was sold exclusively in Japan to the tune of 1,500 pieces around 2003-2004. My covetous eye has turned its gaze towards the Japan L.E. several times, although we haven’t quite tied the knot yet. There are a few different blue dial Speedmaster models out there (the Gemini IV and Tokyo 2020 variants come to mind), but if you want a more approachably sized case and a self-winding mechanism, this is your huckleberry. Prices have ticked up recently, so expect to pay somewhere in the ballpark of $3,500 – $4,500 on Chrono24.
- Case Diameter: 39mm
- Movement: ETA 2892-A2 with Dubois Depraz Chronograph Module (Automatic)
Images from AudaciousCo / JDM Horologist, Chrono24 and eBay.
Omega Speedmaster ‘CK2998 Pulsometer Limited Edition’ Ref. 311.32.40.30.02.001
If you are not familiar with the history of the Speedmaster, a lot of it has to do with the development of the CK 2998. The CK 2998 was originally released in 1959 and is best known for two things: 1) it was the first Speedy to go beyond the atmosphere of Terra Firma, and 2) it remains the basis for modern Speedmaster design language as we know it. Omega has released several O.G. 2998-inspired designs over the years, including the aptly named ‘First Omega in Space’ and a stunning white-blue panda dial limited edition, released respectively in 2012 and 2016.
Pick Numero Dos, a continuance of that product line in 2018, may be one of the prettiest modern Speedmasters to date. What we have here is another limited edition with a more traditional white-black panda coloration, also featuring a sand-blasted silver dial, a 40mm case diameter, a varnished red chronograph hand and no crown guards. Perhaps the most interesting characteristic of the watch is its pulsometer bezel, which allows the user to measure a patient’s number of heart beats per minute. Today’s doctors rely on more precise instruments to determine such a reading, but it is a neat curiosity nonetheless. My personal favorite element is that red chronograph hand – these are the small details that determine future classics.
There are several “accessible” white dial variants to choose from, including the Tokyo 2020 Olympic edition, the Apollo XI 35th Anniversary, and even a Speedmaster Reduced version. They do not count amongst their number a trio of very not-accessible white gold options or other equally rare steel variants such as the Mitsukoshi and Italian Albino Speedmasters. If you can find one, the 2018 Pulsometer reference represents to me the most attractive white dial Speedmaster in a non-stratospheric price range. Yes, I am cognizant that I may come across as insensitive labeling $8,000 – $10,000 as an approachable price range. Consider it in the context of market value for the Mitsukoshi or Italian Albino, however, and this enthusiast piece becomes a downright bargain.
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Movement: Omega Caliber 1861 (Manual-Wind)
Omega Speedmaster Professional ‘Apollo 15 40th Anniversary Limited Edition’ Ref. 311.30.42.30.01.003
A common theme amongst the limited edition Speedmaster hordes is the celebration of the Apollo and Gemini space projects (don’t worry Mercury, I still love you). Every several years, Omega tends to release a new anniversary Speedmaster in honor of missions from either program, typically Apollo, that is complete with its own special visual aesthetic.
Not all are created equal and some exhibit more thoughtfulness than others – I personally own a dial-swapped XI 30th Anniversary which, if you exclude the inside baseball commemorative caseback, is for all intents and purposes a regular Speedmaster Professional. In stark contrast lies the much louder XI 45th Anniversary edition, which features titanium and Sedna gold in its construction alongside a black PVD dial. I bring these models up to point out that the NASA anniversary line is its own entire ecosystem within an already broad range of Speedmasters.
My choice for you amongst the mission-commemorative editions is the patriotic XV 40th Anniversary, which features just enough color to add visual depth without cluttering an already complicated dial. The small seconds subdial sports a blue outline, while the 30-minute and 12-hour subdials sport red and white outlines. Furthermore, the minute track gets a splash of pigmentation as well with all 3 colors incorporated into its design. To the rear, the caseback of this Caliber 1861-powered Speedy is embossed with a very on-brand lunar rover. For someone looking for just the right amount of vibrance in their watch, I think this Speedy bridges the chasm between the different editions I mentioned above rather artfully. If you love America, grilling on the Fourth, and the final frontier, this is the Speedmaster for you.
Unfortunately, the Apollo editions can command decent premiums given their quantity and time-limited nature. Like other models on this list, expect to shell out the dough – the grey market is averaging $10,000 – $12,000 as of this article being posted.
- Case Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Omega Caliber 1861 (Manual-Wind)
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Ref. 3876.50
Moonphase-equipped watches are some of my absolutely favorites; if “Universal Geneve Tri-Compax” sounds foreign to you, give that phrase a quick Google with either “Clapton” or “Evil Clapton” slapped behind it and all will become clear why I adore these watches so much. Unfortunately, Omega does not make anything 36mm in size with a moonphase complication – the obvious nicheness of such a watch precludes any notion of mass marketability. Difference in size aside, however, the Speedmaster still makes for a good platform with enough competence to absorb this additional complication. A moonphase on a moonwatch? Sounds just poetic enough to make sense if you sit on it for a minute.
Omega has issued several different Moonphase Speedmasters that may be worthy of consideration. 1,300 examples of the original “SpeedyMoon” ref. 345.0809 were produced between 1985 and 1989. This watch used tritium and the Caliber 866, which was a base 861 with a module tacked on for the calendar and moonphase complications. However, SpeedyMoons can be tough to source given their limited production run, so accordingly they carry hefty premiums on the secondary market (think $13,000 – $17,000 for a good example). If you don’t want the original, another interesting version might be the recently discontinued ref. 311.30.44.32.01.001, which is 44.5mm in size and features a glimmering aventurine dial with an interesting crescent-shaped date indicator.
We could probably type out an entire post on just Moonphase Speedmasters, but you and I are really pining for just one choice to simplify the shopping process. I hereby present to you my choice in the ref. 3876.50, heir to the original SpeedyMoon. It utilizes the Caliber 1866, which has been upgraded from the 1861 in the same way that the SpeedyMoon upgraded its own base movement at the time. Measuring in at 42mm, this modern issue is visually close to the original as well, with some minor exceptions derived from the subdial trim, moonphase and choice of luminous material.
For those uninterested in forking up the additional cash needed to acquire the 345.0809, the 3876.50 makes moons, not worlds, more sense than the original. Searching via Chrono24 produces a few available watches between $5,000 – $8,000.
- Case Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Omega Caliber 1866 (Manual-Wind)
Omega Speedmaster ‘Brown Dial’ Ref. 311.30[32].42.30.13.001
If you are a fan of vintage like myself, chances are you have stumbled across images of various Rolex and Omega watches where the dial has become “tropical,” or morphed into a soft shade of chocolate. Most often times, this is the result of several factors – prolonged exposure to sunlight and humidity plus manufacturing defects in protective dial coating are the most common culprits. These tropical dial watches are highly sought-after collectors’ items and can command serious dollars regardless of the sale venue. Unfortunately, spending the equivalent of a house down-payment on a tropical dial watch is not necessarily a palatable idea for most collectors and enthusiasts.
Luckily, several brands have taken it upon themselves to channel the energy of tropical dials with limited edition production runs – if you haven’t yet read my review of Airain’s Type 20, this is a good example of such a watch. Omega played this game for a brief time with a brown dial version that was offered roughly from 2007 to 2013, with two separate references distinguished only by whether they were offered with a steel bracelet (311.30) or leather strap (311.32). These watches were equipped with the Caliber 1863, which features nicer finishing and Geneva striping on the bridges. While accuracy is theoretically the same, such changes demarcate the 1863 as the more luxurious sibling reserved for display casebacks, which this watch does indeed have.
Compared to some of the other Speedmasters on this list, this brown dial variant represents a bargain against tropical dial watches – perusing Chrono24 produces several examples in the $4,000 – $7,000 range. Authentic tropical dials take a lifetime to transform, so why not enjoy a similar modern product for a fraction of the cost instead? These watches may not have 100% of the inherent warmth that true tropical dials have, but they are far more accessible and you can enjoy them worry-free as you go about your day.
- Case Diameter: 42mm
- Movement: Omega Caliber 1863 (Manual-Wind)
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